Common Chevrolet Colorado Problems to Be on the Lookout For

As far as mid-sized trucks go the Chevrolet Colorado is a pretty good vehicle when it comes to offroad and inner city driving. Not only is it great for hauling cargo, it is also great for towing heavy loads as well.

However, it is prone to malfunctions just like any other car out there. Keep reading to learn how to troubleshoot and fix any potential issues. And to learn more about its misgivings.

Chevrolet Colorado best and worst engine/vehicle trims

Here’s a look at the four trim levels for the 2018 Chevy Colorado;

Base Trim WT

The base model Chevy Colorado is the WT, and it offers plenty for its $20,000 starting price. The WT comes with a 2.5-liter Inline4 DOHC VVT engine, but two additional engines are available that can increase the horse power and the towing capacity, depending on your choice.

Four-wheel drive is available, as are different cab and bed configurations. You can get exactly what you need for transporting family or equipment or both.

Four-wheel antilock disc brakes, the Stabil Trak electronic stability control system, and all-speed traction control help you stay in control behind the wheel. Safety features include daytime running lights, a rear vision camera, and a suite of six airbags.

The interior of the 2018 Chevy Colorado has plenty of great features that make it fun to drive, as well. The base model comes with a 3.5-inch monochromatic driver information centre and a 7-inch colour touch-screen for the infotainment system. The infotainment is linked to a six-speaker audio system and the rear vision camera. If you sign up for Chevy MyLink, you’ll get access to phone apps and other extras.

The bucket seats are adjustable for comfort, and rubber mats protect the floors in all weather. The base model Chevy Colorado combines practicality and a bit of polish, making it fun to drive. The base model isn’t a luxury vehicle, but it gives you just enough to feel like you aren’t just driving a dowdy work truck.

LT Trim Level

With the LT trim level, which is the next level up, you’ll get everything that the base trim offers plus a little more. You have the same engine, drive, and cab options for all the trim levels, so you can still get what you need in terms of power, payload, and capacity.

Some more features come standard on the LT, and some are just available as options, where they were not for the base model. For example, you have the option to add an automatic locking rear differential on the LT trim, as well as a cat-back performance exhaust system and an engine block heater. Two/Haul mode is also available with the LT, as well as the integrated trailer brake controller.

On the exterior, the LT gets bigger 17-inch metallic cast aluminium wheels (the base comes with 16-inch wheels). All-season Blackwall tires also come standard. A drop-in bedliner, fog lamps, EZ-lift and lower tailgate, cargo tie-downs and dividers all become optional, as well as some other exterior accessories. Folding side mirrors are added as standard.

Inside the LT trim model, you get extras like a bigger driver information centre (4.2 inches), a bigger infotainment touch screen (8 inches), and cruise control. The floors get upgraded with carpets, and the rear seats get under seat storage. A leather-wrapped steering wheel, an overhead console, and OnStar 4G LTE all become standard. Carpeted floor mats are also standard, but all-weather mats are optional.

Other extras you’ll find on the LT trim include remote keyless entry, steering wheel-mounted audio controls, USB ports, and available automatic climate control.

You get a little more luxury with the LT trim level without a huge increase in the price tag.

Z71

The Z71 trim is where you start seeing some of the more luxury features on the 2018 Chevy Colorado becoming standard. You also start to get some of the more advanced mechanical and performance features.

The automatic locking rear differential is now standard, as is hill descent control. You get the same 17-inch metallic cast aluminium wheels, but the finish is Dark Argent instead of Blade Silver. Black painted wheels are available, if you prefer, as well as gloss black aluminium wheels. You can also upgrade to 18-inch wheels for a cost.

Halogen-projector headlights come standard with the Z71 trim, and you also get manual-folding heated sideview mirrors. Recovery hooks and a sliding rear window are additional standard exterior features.

All the interior upgrades from the LT are still included, as well as few extra features. The seats get more adjustment options, so you can get exactly the fit you want, whether you are a driver or a passenger. The front seats are also heated, so you can have a cosy ride even on the coldest days. Other perks include an auto-dimming rear-view mirror, a rear window defogger, automatic climate control, and remote start.

Trail-Ready ZR2

The top trim level, the ZR2, is where you really get the best of all the Chevy Colorado has to offer, both in terms of performance and luxury. This trim comes with Multimatic shocks and front and rear electronic locking differentials. It has an available 2.8-liter Turbo-Diesel engine for top performance. Not only are these features exclusive to the trim, but they are exclusive to the segment.

An off-road chassis lets you amble over rugged terrain, and extra lift at the front and rear, skid plates, and rock sliders ensure the truck can handle anything the road throws at it. The truck also comes with front and rear wheel flares, an Autotrac transfer case, and tubular rocker protection.

You can even opt for a special edition that includes darker wheels and exterior accessories.

How to take good care of your Chevrolet Colorado to avoid common problems

Here are tips to help keep your Chevrolet Colorado running at its best for years to come;

Routinely Change the Engine Oil and Filter

Clean oil lubricates and protects your truck’s engine. Engine oil can easily become contaminated with dust, dirt, and debris from the engine and environment. When this happens, the engine can’t do its job properly.

You should always check your owner’s manual to find out how often you should get an oil change. Change the oil every 7,500 miles or every six months (whichever comes first). For older truck models, change the oil every 5,000 miles or every six months (again, whichever comes first).

You should change the oil more often if you frequently tow or carry heavy loads, drive at low speeds for long periods of time, drive in dusty conditions, drive off-road frequently, or use E85 fuel more than 50% of the time.

Just as your truck needs clean oil to function at its best, it also needs clean air. Be sure to change the oil filter on a regular basis to remove any dust and debris that would slow down the engine’s efficiency. Oil and filter changes are the most critical parts of a good truck maintenance schedule.

Check Your Other Fluid Levels

Aside from oil, other important fluids that need changing less frequently include engine coolant, transmission, power-steering and brake fluid. It is not necessary to know how each works, but it’s vital to at least have a basic understanding of these fluids. Check your owner’s manual and make sure to stay on top of required service.

In addition to the engine oil, you should also routinely check the engine coolant, power steering fluid, windshield washer fluid, and brake fluid.

Engine coolant keeps engine fluids at a consistent boiling and freezing point. Keeping the engine at an optimal temperature is essential for the engine’s performance and for reducing problems associated with extreme temperatures.

The power steering fluid is considered a hydraulic fluid. This means it’s responsible for moving the various components of your truck’s steering system. Changing the power steering fluid can help prolong the life of other more expensive power-steering components, like the power-steering pump and the power-steering rack.

Although it may not seem like a big deal, changing the windshield washer fluid is an important part of routine truck maintenance. Dust and smears can quickly build up on your windshield, making it difficult to see. Routinely changing the windshield washer fluid is not only a safe practice, but it protects your windshield. A clean windshield is less prone to damage.

Like power steering fluid, your truck’s brake fluid is also a hydraulic fluid. Over time, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, causing it to not work properly. This is why your brake fluid should be replaced with new fluid on a regular basis.

Rotate Your Tires

Rotating your tires is essential for maintaining an even amount of treadwear on all four of your truck’s tires. Rotating your tires on a regular basis prolongs the life of your tires. It can also improve gas mileage and prolong the life of your vehicle’s suspension components by reducing vibrations.

When you get your tires rotated, the technician will be able to look at all the other undercarriage components. This will allow them to catch any other problems before they get more severe and costly.

Clean the Exterior

Cleaning the exterior of your truck will do more than make your ride shine. It will also protect the paint on your truck by removing any abrasive dirt or dust.

Cleaning the exterior of your truck is especially important in the winter months in places where it snows. Sand and salt on the roads can quickly build up on your truck and damage the paint.

When you do clean your truck, don’t forget to clean the undercarriage. It’s just as important as the other parts of your truck.

Get Your Truck Inspected

A truck inspection is a little like an annual physical for your truck. An expert analyzes your truck for any issues. It’s important to catch any mechanical or safety issues early on. Getting your truck inspected can at times feel like an inconvenience, but it’s a critical part of maintaining your vehicle.

Always Make Sure Your Auto is Well-Oiled

Keeping your Chevy Colorado, or any Chevrolet for that matter, oiled is key to ensuring that it lasts for years to come. Oil lubricates your vehicle’s engine so that it runs in tip-top shape. Neglect this part of your automobile’s upkeep will lead to lower fuel efficiency or even worse. An engine running on old oil will eventually need replacing. This is easy enough to do at home, but make sure to stay on top of it.

Rotate and Balance Tires

Want to keep your tires moving? Take care to rotate and balance them. Tires do not wear down at the same rate. By taking care to rotate and balance your tires you can ensure that they will last much longer than if they are neglected.

Take it Easy on Your Car

Driving aggressively puts stress on your vehicle. Avoid jack-rabbit starts and stops, and taking corners at high speed. Come to think of it, avoid driving your car at any speed much above the legal limit. Take care of your automobile and it will take better care of you on the road.

Not changing spark plugs can result in your engine misfiring or having a rough idle. The interval for when they should be replaced relies on a number of factors. Installing new ones is usually an easy fix, but if you feel uncomfortable doing it yourself having your local service swap them is simple.

Check Your Brakes

Brakes are key to occupants’ safety. Although they wear out differently depending on how they are used, as a rule a vehicle racking up more time on highways is going to go through brakes less quickly than one mostly driven in stop-and-go traffic. Make sure to consult your manual for directions on how to take care of your brakes.

Chevy Colorado recalls

Below are all the Chevy Colorado recalls by year;

2022 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

GM recalled certain 2022 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles equipped with a manual passenger seat. The front passenger seat may have a hook attachment that was not properly welded, allowing it to separate from the inboard track of the seat frame.

2021 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

GM recalled certain 2020 Chevrolet Colorado. Incorrect bolts may have been used at one or more fastening locations to secure the seat belts to the vehicle. If an incorrect bolt was used, the seat belt may not be properly attached to the vehicle.

2018 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

GM recalled certain 2018 Colorado. The high-pressure fuel pump may detach from its mounting flange, possibly resulting in the pump damaging the high-pressure fuel line.

2016 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

1. GM recalled certain model year 2016 Chevrolet Colorado trucks manufactured August 25, 2015 to September 24, 2015. The affected vehicles have a console compartment lid latch assembly that may fail to keep the compartment door closed in the event of a crash. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 201, “Occupant Protection in Interior Impact.”
2. GM recalled certain model year 2016 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles manufactured January 19, 2016, to February 2, 2016. The driver frontal air bag may improperly inflate during second-stage deployment in the event of a high-speed crash.

2016 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

GM recalled certain 2015-2016 GMC Canyon and Chevrolet Colorado. The driver’s frontal air bag may improperly inflate during second-stage deployment in the event of a high-speed crash.

2015 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

1. GM recalled certain model year 2015 Chevrolet Colorado manufactured January 6, 2014, to October 1, 2014. In the affected vehicles, the driver air bag connections may have been wired incorrectly. This could reverse the deployment sequence and disrupt the deployment timing of the driver air bag. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 208, “Occupant Crash Protection.”
2. GM recalled certain model year 2015 Chevrolet Colorado manufactured January 6, 2014, to April 1, 2015. In the affected vehicles, the hooks that secure the driver’s and/or front passenger’s seat frame may not have been properly attached to the vehicle body during assembly. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 207, “Seating Systems.”
3. GM recalled certain model year 2015 Chevrolet Colorado. The affected vehicles may experience the front brake calipers leaking brake fluid. This is due to air pockets, an imperfection in the metal caliper body.
4. GM recalled certain model year 2015 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles manufactured January 6, 2015, to March 17, 2015. A poor electrical connection within the steering gear connector may cause a loss of power steering assist.
5. GM recalled certain 2015-2016 Chevrolet Colorado. The driver’s frontal air bag may improperly inflate during second-stage deployment in the event of a high-speed crash.
6. GM recalled certain 2015 Chevrolet Colorado. The power steering assist may be lost due to a poor electrical connection within the steering gear assembly.

2012 Chevrolet Colorado Recall

1. GM recalled certain model year 2012 Chevrolet Colorado manufactured from September 9, 2011, through October 19, 2011, for failing to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard number 208, “occupant crash protection.” these vehicles may have been produced with driver safety belt buckle electrical connector terminals that do not fit snugly with the connector pins, causing the connection to be intermittent.
2. General Motors recalled certain model year 2010-2012 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles manufactured from November 9, 2009, through august 28, 2012, for failing to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 113, “hood latch system.” the hood may be missing the secondary hood latch.

2011 Chevrolet Colorado recall

1. GM recalled certain model year 2004-2011, Chevrolet Colorado regular cab vehicles and extended cab vehicles without a rear seat and equipped with a front 60/40 split bench seat. These vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 225, child restraint anchorage systems. The top tether anchor for the front centre seat is not accessible and the owner manual does not include instructions regarding how to use the top tether.
2. General Motors recalled certain model year 2011 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles. The rear axle cross pins were not properly heat treated and could fracture and become displaced within the rear axle. Should the pin shift out of position, it could create an interference condition and cause the rear axle to lock.
3. General Motors recalled certain model year 2011 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles manufactured from September 22, 2010, through November 5, 2010. Some of these vehicles have the condition in which the windshield wiper motor crank arm nut may not be tightened to specification. When the wipers are operated with a build-up of snow or ice, or if the wipers are operated on a dry windshield, the nut could loosen. If there is sufficient loosening of the nut, the wipers could become inoperative.
4. General Motors recalled certain model year 2011 Chevrolet Colorado passenger vehicles equipped with a 2.9 or 3.7 litre engine and a four-speed automatic transmission for failing to conform to the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no 102, “transmission shift lever sequence, starter interlock, and transmission braking effect,” and federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 114, “theft protection.” these vehicles may have been built with an automatic transmission adjustment clip that may not retain the shift cable in the correct position. If the shift cable is not in the correct position, the prndl shift lever may not accurately reflect the position of the transmission gear. The driver could move the shifter to “park” and remove the ignition key, but the transmission gear may not be in “park.”
5. General Motors recalled certain model year 2010-2012 Chevrolet Colorado vehicles manufactured from 9, 2009, through august 28, 2012, for failing to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 113, “hood latch system.” the hood may be missing the secondary hood latch.

2010 Chevrolet Colorado recall

1. GM recalled certain model year 2004-2011 Chevrolet Colorado regular cab vehicles and extended cab vehicles without a rear seat and equipped with a front 60/40 split bench seat. These vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 225, child restraint anchorage systems. The top tether anchor for the front center seat is not accessible and the owner manual does not include instructions regarding how to use the top tether.
2. General Motors recalled certain model year 2010-2012 Chevrolet Colorado manufactured from November 9, 2009, through august 28, 2012, for failing to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 113, “hood latch system.” the hood may be missing the secondary hood latch.

2009 Chevrolet Colorado recall

1. GM recalled Chevrolet Colorado vehicles. The fuel system control modules may have a condition in which an adhesive separation of the room temperature vulcanizing (rtv) seal between the seal and the housing may allow water to seep into the module.
2. GM recalled 185,903 model year 2004-2009 Colorado passenger vehicles originally sold in or currently registered in the states of Alabama, Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Mississippi, Nevada, New Mexico, Puerto Rico, South Carolina, Texas, U.S. Virgin Islands and Utah. Some of these vehicles have a brake lamp switch that may not work as designed due to contamination in the switch.
3. GM recalled certain model year 2004-2011 Chevrolet Colorado regular cab vehicles and extended cab vehicles without a rear seat and equipped with a front 60/40 split bench seat. These vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 225, child restraint anchorage systems. The top tether anchor for the front centre seat is not accessible and the owner manual does not include instructions regarding how to use the top tether.

2008 Chevrolet Colorado recall

1. Eagle eyes recalled 404,546 headlamp assemblies of various part numbers sold for use as aftermarket equipment for various passenger vehicles. These headlamps fail to conform to the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 108, “lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment.” these headlamps do not contain the required amber side reflectors.
2. GM recalled 185,903 model year 2004-2009 Colorado passenger vehicles originally sold in or currently registered in the states of Alabama, Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Mississippi, Nevada, New Mexico, Puerto Rico, South Carolina, Texas, U.S. Virgin Islands and Utah. Some of these vehicles have a brake lamp switch that may not work as designed due to contamination in the switch.
3. GM recalled certain model year 2004-2011 Chevrolet Colorado regular cab vehicles and extended cab vehicles without a rear seat and equipped with a front 60/40 split bench seat. These vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 225, child restraint anchorage systems. The top tether anchor for the front center seat is not accessible and the owner manual does not include instructions regarding how to use the top tether.

2007 Chevrolet Colorado recall

1. Eagle eyes recalled 404,546 headlamp assemblies of various part numbers sold for use as aftermarket equipment for various passenger vehicles. These headlamps fail to conform to the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 108, “lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment.” these headlamps do not contain the required amber side reflectors.
2. GM recalled 185,903 model year 2004-2009 Colorado vehicles originally sold in or currently registered in the states of Alabama, Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Mississippi, Nevada, New Mexico, Puerto Rico, South Carolina, Texas, U.S. Virgin Islands and Utah. Some of these vehicles have a brake lamp switch that may not work as designed due to contamination in the switch.

Do Chevy Colorado’s have a lot of problems?

No. Granted, the severity of its problems as range from basic to severe. But the car is not a lemon. There are other mid-sized trucks in the market with far more annual recalls with regards to manufacturing problems as compared to the Chevrolet Colorado.

What are the common Chevy Colorado problems?

As reliable as Chevrolet trucks are, the Colorado may develop problems that could affect its drivability and safety. Let’s take a look at some of the most common Chevy Colorado issues found across different model years:

Transmission and Drivetrain Problems

Many owners of the 2019 Colorado redesign have complained of delayed transmission shifting. Drivers report that their trucks would take about three seconds before they would go into gear.

There have also been reports of slipping transmissions, which may be caused by worn-out internal components. Friction between parts like the clutch packs may also produce metal shavings and contaminate the transmission fluid.

Some units of the 2018 Chevy Colorado have also had their share of transmission problems like shuddering and excessive vibration at certain speeds. Flushing and replacing the transmission fluid or getting a new torque converter appeared to solve the issue in some vehicles. Unfortunately, others report experiencing the same issues after a few weeks.

Other problems reported for this model year include a vibrating drivetrain, which may be caused by a bent driveshaft, worn-out CV or universal joints, or a damaged engine or transmission mount.

Engine Misfire

Engine misfire has been a common problem found in many 2004-2009 and 2016 Colorado. Owners of affected model years report that their engine would stall intermittently due to worn-out valve seats. These vehicles are more likely to fail their emissions tests as well.

Many factors may cause an engine to misfire. Some of these include damaged or worn-out spark plugs, faulty ignition coils, and vacuum leaks.

Loss of Power Steering

Loss of power steering has been a commonly reported 2015 Chevy Colorado problem. Some owners of this model year have complained about having illuminated service power steering and Stabil Trak warning lights before losing steering control.

Some owners of the 2015 Chevy Colorado have complained about having illuminated service power steering and Stabil Trak warning lights before losing steering control.

Several factors may lead to power steering problems, such as contaminated power steering fluid, low fluid levels, and damaged belts and power steering pumps. If you suspect a steering issue with your truck, make sure to get it checked by a licensed mechanic for an accurate diagnosis.

Key Stuck in Ignition

Owners of some units of the 2015 Chevy Colorado have complained about difficulty getting their keys out of the ignition. The key may get stuck because of a locked steering wheel, key debris, a dead battery, or a damaged ignition cylinder, among others.

Soft Brake Pedal

Many 2012 Chevy Colorado have been known to suffer from braking problems. Drivers report that their brake pedal feels spongy and needs to be pumped to bring their vehicle to a complete stop.

Some 2012 Chevy Colorado have been reported to suffer from braking problems. Image source: Chevrolet Pressroom.

Damage or air in the brake lines, leaking brake calipers, worn master cylinders or brake shoes, and a malfunctioning ABS hydraulic assembly are some of the most common causes of a spongy brake pedal.

Fuel Level Sensor Failure

Some owners of the 2004-2012 Colorado redesigns have reported about their trucks running out of gas at an alarming rate. Some also noticed that their fuel gauges had stopped working, which prevented them from knowing whether or not their trucks had enough fuel.

According to their mechanics, the erratic fuel gauge operation in the affected pickups may have been caused by a faulty fuel level sensor. Replacing this part can cost anywhere between $50 and $100 plus labor costs.

Malfunctioning A/C Blower

Many owners of the 2004-2010 and 2012 Colorado redesigns have complained of a malfunctioning A/C blower, which would only function at certain speeds or not work at all. These problems were caused by a faulty blower motor resistor block, which can cost anywhere between $15 and $60 to replace plus labor costs.

Keep in mind that even a pickup as reliable as the Chevy Colorado is bound to have problems as it racks up mileage. But by familiarizing yourself with the model’s most common issues and staying on top of its repair and maintenance, you’ll be able to prevent premature wear on its parts and keep it running for a long time.

Is the Chevy Colorado reliable?

RepairPal gives the Chevy Colorado a 4.0 out of 5.0 reliability rating, ranking it fourth out of seven midsize trucks. The annual repair and maintenance cost for this model is estimated to be $600, which is $50 more compared to other midsize trucks. Most Colorado owners bring in their trucks for unscheduled repairs at an average of 0.2 times a year with a 13% probability of having a severe problem.

J.D. Power has also given the 2017-2021 Colorado model years above-average reliability and quality scores. The 2021 model received an 81 out of 100 and ranked third out of six midsize trucks.

Chevy Colorado years to avoid

The Chevrolet Colorado’s most problematic year models are;

• 2004 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2005 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2015 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2016 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2018 Chevrolet Colorado

These models have a history of problems, with transmission, engine, and AC unit failures being the most notable. Specifically, engine misfires and transmission failures.

The 2004 and 2005 Chevrolet Colorado year models have had many complications due to engine misfiring and AC units and brakes malfunctioning. Repairs on these year models cost, on average, around $2000, which is cheaper than some other models’ issues, but these have all sorts of problems.

Steer clear of the 2015 Colorado, as it had the highest number of reported issues, with many occurring after only 10,000 miles. The transmission, in particular, is often faulty in these, leading to potential danger when you take it out on the road. The 2016 model has similar problems but fewer reports. You shouldn’t purchase either model.

The 2018 Chevrolet Colorado is notorious for its bad shudder. The vehicle has been known to start shaking violently shortly after being purchased, so this is also one to avoid.

The 2004 and 2005 models are both riddled with AC/heater problems and engine failures. They also tend for their check engine light to appear and refuse to go off without extensive maintenance.

The 2015 Chevrolet Colorado is regarded as the worst year model, suffering from the severe transmission and engine problems that appear at low mileage, with a high average cost to fix. The 2016 is not much better, though its transmission failures are less severe than its predecessor’s. The 2018 model mostly functions properly but is infamous for intense shudder and vibration at low mileage.

Chevrolet Colorado Best years to go for

These year models may suffer from the occasional transmission problem, but they should be few and far between and relatively cheap to fix.

• 2006 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2007 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2008 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2009 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2010 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2011 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2012 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2013 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2014 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2017 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2019 Chevrolet Colorado
• 2020 Chevrolet Colorado

The 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2010 Chevrolet Colorado year models are some of the best used models you can buy. Both models have very few complaints and often don’t encounter problems until they’re at an average of 70,000 miles, usually costing less than $1000 to fix. Similarly, the 2006 model’s defects tend to show up later in the car’s life and are cheap to fix, but it has had more problems reported than the models following it.

Check this too: How to Dispose of Antifreeze

2011, 2012, and 2017 Colorados are generally reliable but see some malfunctions happen at lower mileage, in some instances less than 20,000 miles. The 2019 Colorado still has problems with shudder and vibration like the 2018 before, but they are less severe.

Ultimately, the 2013 and 2014 Chevrolet Colorado year models are your best bet, with excellent track records.

Chevy Colorado transmission problems

Most of the common problems with Chevy Colorado transmission are:

• Accelerating issues.
• Torque converter issues.
• Transmission fluid leaks.
• Jerking and shuddering.
• Irregular vibration.

Chevy Colorado brake lights not working

Follow these steps to troubleshoot and fix your brake lights;

1. Check the Fuse

If none of the brake lights are working, we are going to follow the circuit from the fuse box back to the brake pedal.  At some point the power is not getting from point A to point B.  We just have to find where that is.

Note:  that tail lights can work even if the brake lights are burned out.  It is entirely possible that all the brake lights burned out at the same time.

2. Check your Colorado’s Brake Light Switch

Next you need to figure out where in the path from the fuse box to the brake lights the power is lost.  The most common location is the brake light switch.  The good news is they are inexpensive and easy to replace.

Your Colorado’s brake light switch is under the brake pedal.  It ALWAYS should have power running to it, even if the key is off. 

Basically, there are two wires, one is alway hot.  When you press the brake pedal down, it sends this power to the brake lights.  This is the most likely failure point.

If your vehicle has cruise control, it may appear as though there are two brake switches.  The other one is to tell the cruise control to turn off when you press the brake pedal.  You may need to consult your manual to determine which one is which.  But, as a general rule, the cruise control switch will not have power going to it when the key is off like the brake light switch does.

3. Check for a Bad Ground

If there is a ground wire running to the brake light switch, make sure that it is secured tightly and corrosion free.  If you can’t find the ground wire at all, run a jumper wire to substitute for the ground wire.

Now test the brake light switch.  If it works, fix the ground wire.

4. Other Wiring Issues

If your Colorado’s brake light switch checked out ok, and there are no brake lights illuminating at all, inspect the wiring harness going from the brake switch to the bulbs themselves.  There could be an issue with frayed wiring, wiring that has lost its ground, or a short/open situation.

If you have the “third” or dedicated brake light (the one not in your tail lights), check the harness after they diverge.  You know that it has power before this point since the third brake light is still getting power.

Note: Look in the trunk and ensure that the harness isn’t damaged in there.  It’s not uncommon for this to happen.

How to install fog lights on a Chevy Colorado

Start by locating your vehicle’s pass-through hole in the firewall designed for wires to run through. Most vehicles have a hole in the firewall pre-drilled at the factory for the purpose of running wires under the hood of the car to the interior.

If you’re adding fog lights to a vehicle not originally equipped with them, you’ll need to start by running the wiring for an on-off switch from under the hood to the inside of the vehicle. The easiest and most direct way to do so is to run the wire through the vehicle’s firewall. Most vehicles will already have such a hole drilled on the driver’s side as a pass- through for other cables, so locate this hole. In the unlikely chance your vehicle doesn’t already have a pass-through hole under or behind the dash, you’ll need to drill one and install a tight rubber grommet around the wire to seal out the elements.

Connect Your Fog Light Switch

Next, take the black ground wire included for the switch and connect one end to the grounding terminal on the back of the switch. Connect the other one to an unpainted metal section under the dash – you may need to drill in order to create a hole if a suitable one can’t be found.

A wire with a fuse connected to it should be included also – these are often red in color. Hook this into the corresponding terminal on the back of the switch, then run the other end out through the firewall hole back into the hood area. The red wire will have a connector piece designed to snap in place with another section of red wire that connects to the relay, then the battery. Connect this last.

Synch Power For The Fog Lights To Your Ignition

Your kit may come with a wire (usually green in color) that’s designed to be connected to the ignition fuse inside the fuse box – ensuring the fog lights will only operate when the vehicle’s ignition is in the ‘on’ position. If your fuse box is inside the vehicle, run this wire through the firewall hole. If the fuse box is under the hood, connect it there – the fuse panel cover and your owner’s manual should direct you the applicable fuse.

Finally, snap the connectors on each section of the red wire together to bring power to the entire setup.

You’ll see black ground wire extensions that came in the kit. Connect them to the matching black ground wires running out of the back of the fog lights, then connect them to an unpainted section of the vehicle frame. Connect (white) power wires together with the matching (white) power wires from each light. After that, connect them to the Y- shaped (white) power wire that’s had the other end of it run inside the vehicle.

Note: Performing some of the above wiring work may require use of common electric wiring and cable tools.

Removing A Bumper Cover To Install Fog Lights

If your vehicle was not equipped with fog lights from the factory, it’s a good chance the bumper cover already has openings for them or pre-defined cutout areas marked on the inside. Vehicles that have nothing at all will require measuring and cutting by eye.

In order to remove the front bumper cover for any of these jobs, look for bolts and screws that secure it in place. On some vehicles, you’ll see attachment points after opening the hood where the top of the bumper cover meets the cowl panel. You’ll definitely find securing points underneath the vehicle where the bumper cover meets splash shields and close to the edge of wheel well openings where the bumper cover meets the wheel well liner. If there are flat plastic caps or clips, remove them with a small flathead screwdriver by wedging up.

Remove the bolts with an applicable socket wrench or flat wrench. In the event your vehicle manufacturer has used rivets to secure things, they’ll need to be drilled out with a traditional drill. Then you’ll need a rivet gun to reinstall new ones – not an expensive purchase, but the proper tool to ensure parts stay safely on.

Once all fasteners are removed, the bumper cover can be detached. Many are designed to slide horizontally along special bracket pieces mounted underneath before coming completely loose, so move the bumper cover in this fashion first if you aren’t able to obtain specific instructions on your make and model.

Cutting Holes In Your Bumper Cover To Mount New Fog Lights

If you don’t already own a cutting tool, a kit that includes small cutting wheels and all other bits needed to drill, grind, sharpen, and polish to perfection will be invaluable at this point – get one. Once your front bumper cover has been removed from the vehicle, use your fog light as a stencil to draw a line around where you’ll be cutting – it’s okay to make the hole slightly bigger than the fog light because your add-on kit will come with plastic bezel pieces that mount on the outside of the bumper cover. The bezels will hide any gaps.

Note: Be Carefully. When cut along the lines, then see how the lights and the bezel pieces fit. Install your mounting brackets to the bumper cover with hardware included in the kit, then connect wiring as discussed earlier in the article.

 Mounting Universal Fog Light Brackets Directly To A Metal Section Of Your Vehicle

A fog light kit will include universal mounting brackets designed to bolt onto the bumper of your vehicle, to the framework underneath the bumper, or on a cross member just behind the grille. It’s pretty much your choice where you wish to put them.

 If you’ve got a grille guard or bull bar mounted on your vehicle already, you’ll typically find pre-existing holes along tubular bar sections put there solely for the purpose of mounting lights and other accessories. When drilling into metal is required, it’s important to use drill bits rated for metal because they can handle greater levels of heat buildup. Use the size of drill bit specified by the instructions in the kit because you’ll want a hole big enough to slide the bracket bolt through, but not so big that that the corresponding nut and washer are loose and wobble.

Next, secure the fog light mounting bracket on the vehicle and tighten all nuts in place firmly. Mount the fog light onto the bracket, then connect wiring to the lights.

How to remove speed limiter on a Chevy Colorado

The only way to truly remove this limit on your own is to obtain a tuner to tune the vehicle. There are aftermarket performance chips as well. These will work to reprogram the functions of the engine to allow it to reach a higher level. A tuner kit is generally the most common way to do this.

You’ll need to find a tuner for the model year of your vehicle. Then, the tuner will fit your truck properly and allow you to make adjustments to both the speed and the rev limiter. It may also allow you to read and clear the diagnostic trouble codes that you may get from time to time.

You’ll need to follow the instructions from the tuner to do this. It’s also important to know that some states, like California, have laws in place to limit your ability to make such adjustments.

Chevy Colorado door locks not working

There are three primary components of the power door lock system that can fail, resulting in a useless power door lock:

Blown fuse

A fuse is a low resistance resistor that creates overcurrent protection. Essentially, the fuse takes a large amount of electrical current, and converts it into a smaller, more manageable amount of current that the door lock actuator can have. It’s not rare for fuses to blow, and when they do, electrical current will stop running to the door lock actuator, rendering the power door lock system useless.

Dead power door lock switch

The power door lock switch is a relatively simple rocker switch. It reacts to you pressing the lock or unlock button, and sends a simple signal to the actuator. Like light switches, the power door lock switch can die due to frequent use.

Malfunctioning power door lock actuator

The power door lock actuator is the part of the power door lock system that actually controls the locks. The actuator is a series of gears, with a set of rack and pinion gears at the end. When the actuator gets the signal from the power door lock switch, a small motor turns the gears. The rack and pinion are able to convert the rotational motion of the motor to a vertical motion, which locks and unlocks the doors. Like the power door lock switch, the power door lock actuator can malfunction due to the large amount of use that it gets.

Other Possible Causes

There are many issues that can cause your power locks to stop working:

• Your key fob is faulty or has a dead battery. Sometimes the answer is in your hand. Many people stress about the functionality of their doors not realizing the only issue was the key fob.
• Your car has a broken wire. Try holding the lock switch up or down and then opening and closing the door repeatedly. If the locks begin to work intermittently, you may have a broken wire.
• Extremely cold weather has caused the mechanism to freeze. Because the doors on your car are not fully moisture-proof, extreme cold may cause the linkage controlling your power locks to freeze.
• The solenoid needs to be replaced. The solenoid, the mechanism controlling your door’s locking and unlocking functions, may be in disrepair or need to be replaced.

Try disconnecting the negative battery cable and touching the positive post to clear all capacitors, then reconnect and see if the locks work.

Note: This method only works when batteries have gone dead.

If this doesn’t work, have an expert technicians diagnose and repair the system. Relays and electrical systems can be complex, and a broken wire or door lock actuator problem can easily mimic the symptoms of a door lock relay and vice versa.

Chevy Colorado radio not working

If your radio is not working, it is most probably because your Chevy MyLink infotainment system isn’t interacting properly with your smartphone, there are several steps that you can take to try and resolve the issue before you progress to rebooting the system. First, go through this quick checklist to make sure your phone is prepared to pair with MyLink:

Make sure your phone’s software is up-to-date. Install any available upgrades for the operating system.

Check to see if your phone is paired to another Bluetooth device. Some phones will pair with only one device at a time, so you will need to disconnect your smartphone from the previous device to connect it to Chevy MyLink.

Make sure Bluetooth is enabled on your smartphone.

Locate your smartphone and ensure that it’s inside the car and located as close as possible to the MyLink system to facilitate easier pairing.

Charge your smartphone. If the battery is low, this can interfere with proper pairing.

If you’ve completed these steps and your phone still isn’t pairing properly with Chevy MyLink, open the door of your vehicle for a few seconds and close it again. This often prompts the vehicle to pair with associated devices.

Re-pairing Your Devices with Chevy MyLink

The next step, if you’re still having trouble, is to prepare to re-pair your smartphone and Chevy MyLink from the beginning. Delete your Chevy MyLink pairing from your smartphone and delete the smartphone from the list of paired devices on the infotainment display in your vehicle. Leave the devices unpaired for a few hours, then attempt to re-pair them by following these steps:

• Select the “Phone” button from your Chevy MyLink home screen.
• Press the “Pair Device” option in Chevy MyLink.
• Open your phone’s Bluetooth menu and select “Chevy MyLink” from the available options.
• Wait for a pin number to appear on your smartphone screen.
• Enter the pin number from your smartphone on the MyLink screen.

This should reset your Bluetooth pairing and solve most problems with Chevy MyLink. However, if the system still isn’t behaving properly, you can proceed to the next section and reset the entire system.

How to Reset Chevy MyLink

If the previous methods of troubleshooting your Chevy MyLink don’t work, you can reset the system entirely. This will bring your Chevy MyLink system back to a like-new state.

If your infotainment system is still responding to your commands, the first type of reset that you should attempt is a basic factory reset. This deletes all your previous settings and clears stored data, which may be the cause of your difficulties. To perform a factory reset on Chevy MyLink:

• Select the “Settings” icon from the Home menu.
• Scroll down to “Return to Factory Settings” and select this option.
• Choose from the available options to “Restore Vehicle Settings,” “Clear All Private Data,” or “Restore Radio Settings,” depending on the type of issue that you’re having.
• You may need to progress through multiple options here to resolve your issues fully.

Note: To reset your Chevy MyLink system entirely, hold down the Home and Fast Forward buttons simultaneously for 10 seconds. This should reboot the system and resolve any problems that you’re having. This type of reset is the ideal solution if your infotainment screen is frozen, the system isn’t responding properly to cues, or you can’t get your devices to pair despite trying the tactics listed in the previous section.

Chevy Colorado won’t start

The most common causes that hinders normal starting operation of your Colorado are dead key fob battery, dead 12v battery, corrosion on battery terminals, bad alternator, clogged fuel filter, broken starter, blown fuse, empty gas tank, immobilizer error or any fault in the electrical system.

1. Weak Battery

If your Colorado’s engine won’t crank or cranks very slowly, then the most likely culprit is a weak or dead 12v battery. Investigating more closely and doing a battery voltage test will clarify whether the starting problem is due to the battery. A test can be done to measure the voltage between the battery poles, check the acid level and assess the condition of the starter battery.

If a new car battery has been installed, the battery may not have yet reached its full capacity. There is nothing to worry about. A new battery only develops its full capacity over time.

How to test a 12v battery

The voltage of the battery on your Chevy Colorado can be measured precisely with a multimeter. Before the test, the multimeter is set to the voltage range of the battery and connected to its plus and minus poles. Successful testing of the car battery, i.e., checking the voltage, usually results in values ​​of approx. 12 to 13 volts. Values ​​above 14 or below 11.5 volts require an expert assessment of the condition of the car battery. Because the battery may have a defect with these measured values ​​and must be replaced.

How to jump start a Chevy Colorado

If dead battery is the reason for the breakdown of your Colorado, you can easily jump start it using jumper cables and a healthy battery from another vehicle, or using a battery booster if available.

First connect red cable to the positive terminal of your Colorado’s dead battery, then to the positive terminal of donor battery. Next connect black cable to the negative terminal of donor battery, then to the bare metal in the engine bay of your Colorado. Start the donor vehicle and then your Colorado. Remove the cables in reverse order.

2. Corrosion on battery

Corrosion on the contacts of your car battery leads to loss of contact and reduced current flow, which means that your engine can no longer start properly.

To know if your Colorado’s starting problems are from dirty battery contacts, you need to investigate them. If you lift the rubber covers over the two battery terminals, you can check the terminals for corrosion. If you discover white deposits or silvery-green deposits, but no further cracks or damage, you do not have to replace the battery, just clean it.

How to clean battery corrosion

To clean the battery on your Chevy Colorado, you have to remove the pole cables first, which requires no special knowledge, just a little concentration, as the order is very important. First remove the black cable from the negative pole. If the pole clamp is very tight, you can open it with pliers. We advise against using metal pliers, but if you use them, you must make sure that you do not touch any other parts of the body. Next you can unplug the red positive pole cable. Once the battery has been removed from the circuit, you can start cleaning the corroded battery. After cleaning, reconnect the terminals.

3. Weak key fob battery

If your Colorado has push start/stop button, then its possible that your vehicle may not start due to weak key fob battery. Don’t worry, you can still start your vehicle – the battery is only used to send the signal for locking/unlocking. If the key fob battery is empty, the door no longer locks or unlocks at the push of a button. The doors must then be opened manually. The immobilizer is controlled by a passive transponder. Passive means, among other things, that the transponder in the key does not need its own power source.

How to start Chevy Colorado with dead key fob battery

If you have a model of Colorado which only has a key fob with start/stop button and no place to insert a key, then try placing your key fob as close to the start/stop button as you can and then start the vehicle. If it doesn’t work, then look in your vehicle’s operational manual for exact location of key fob placement, as it may vary depending on model.

Tip: You can try starting your Colorado with its second key. It will also rule out any other problem with the first key, for example, water damage.

4. Broken starter motor

A starter is a motor for starting the engine of your Colorado. The average life of a starter motor is about 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and the life will be shortened if the engine is started more frequently. In any case, since the starter motor also has a limited life, it will break down after using the car for a long time, and if the starter motor breaks down, the engine will not start.

Symptom: When you turn the key to start the engine of your Colorado, you will hear a clicking sound, which is the sound of a bad starter motor. And if the starter motor does not work with a healthy battery, suspect a malfunction of the starter.

If the starter fails, it usually needs to be replaced with a new one.

Temporary fix for starter

If the engine does not start due to the starter, the engine may start if you turn the key while hitting the starter motor with something like a stick or metal tool. This workaround is effective when the parts inside the starter are stuck together or the gears are slightly out of alignment.

However, it is possible that the starter is nearing the end of its life, so it is recommended that you have it inspected at a dealer or maintenance shop.

5. Defective alternator

An alternator is a generator that produces electricity. If your Colorado’s alternator fails, it will not be able to produce electricity and the battery will not be able to charge. Therefore, even if you think that the cause of the engine not starting is a battery failure and replace the battery, the battery will soon run out and the engine will not start.

Alternators rarely break down. In particular, modern cars have improved performance, so it is said that they will last 200,000 to 300,000 miles. Still, it can break down depending on how you use it, and in the case of a used car, the alternator may be quite old. Don’t let your guard down.

If the alternator breaks down, it must be replaced with a new alternator.

6. Clogged fuel filter

The fuel filter of your Colorado does not wear out like a mechanical part, but it gets clogged by dirt and airborne particles and clogs over time. The permeability of the filter drops, and so does the fuel pressure. To a certain extent this doesn’t matter, but if the fuel filter is too dirty, the engine will no longer perform at full capacity and in some instance may not start at all. Cleaning is not possible; you can only change the filter.

7. Fuel pump failure

If your Colorado’s fuel pump fails, then the engine won’t start. The pump normally ensures that the necessary amount of fuel is passed from the tank to the injection system of the engine with sufficient pressure.

Before your fuel pump stops working, it usually becomes noticeable: if your car’s engine breaks down from time to time, the car is difficult to start, the engine jerks a little or the engine performance drops, you should have your pump checked.

Wear or contamination of the pump can be the reason for this. If the pump is leaking, a power contact is broken, a line or a pump lever is broken, the fuel pump is usually also noticeable before failure. You can have a defective fuel pump replaced in your workshop.

8. Blown fuse

In rare cases, a blown fuse could also be the culprit in the breakdown of your Colorado. Check all fuses in the fuse box essential for starting the engine. But, be careful when lending a hand, yourself to the fuse box. The box is under power and repairs or tests should always be done in a workshop.

9. Defective spark plugs

Without functioning spark plugs, the engine will not start. The spark plugs themselves are often not affected by a defect. Instead, plug connections on the ignition system come loose. If only one plug is actually loose, you can fix the problem yourself on site. If a spark plug has failed, it must be replaced in the workshop.

10. Rodent damage

Rodent damage can be another reason why your Chevy Colorado won’t start. The animals crawl under the vehicle and bite through cables and wires. In principle, this can affect all vehicle systems such as the fuel supply, the oil supply or the power supply.

The rodent damage can usually be seen quickly by looking into the engine compartment. The damage caused by the rodent bite can be repaired in the workshop. Be prepared for relatively high costs here.

11. Engine failure

Although very rare, but it can also be the cause of the breakdown of your Colorado. If a vehicle has an engine failure, then nothing works anymore. It is not uncommon for the driver of a vehicle to be responsible for such damage. Typical causes include tearing of the timing belt, incorrect fuelling, insufficient oil, hydro lock, overheating of the engine, or continuous driving in an excessive speed range.

Use OBD2 scanner for diagnosis

Since Chevy Colorado is equipped with on-board diagnostics (OBD), a fault diagnosis can provide initial indications of where the malfunction is located.

To begin troubleshooting, you must first connect the diagnostic tool to your Colorado. The OBDII connector is usually located under the dashboard. With the wire connected, you should turn the ignition on. But be careful not to start the engine. Most diagnostic devices then ask for some information about the vehicle. It is important that you enter this 100% correctly, otherwise the result of the search may be falsified. In addition to the vehicle manufacturer and model, you usually also have to type in the engine and vehicle ID number. For exact troubleshooting, always check whether the information is correct.

How to change the clock on a Chevy Colorado

To Set a Clock on an AM/FM Radio;

• Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position but do not start the truck.
• Press the “Set” button, and then the “Channel Up” (TUNE +) button.
• The lettering is small and very hard to read on these buttons; look for “HR” and “MIN” at the top of the channel up/down select buttons.
• Wait until “SET” appears in the radio’s LED display window.
• Use the “SEEK” button to adjust the hour.
• Use the “SCAN” button to set the minutes.
• Press and hold the “SET” button again until it beeps to indicate clock settings have been changed.
• Turn off the radio and turn it on again after 15-30 seconds.
• Start the car. The correct time should now display.

To change the time on a Chevy truck radio;

• Look for a pair of buttons labelled “HR” (hour) and “MIN” (minute). They are usually located in the lower right corner of the stereo unit.
• Press the two buttons at the same time until you see “RDS TIME” on the radio screen.
• Hold the buttons down again for two seconds to accept the RDS time.

How to change wiper blades on 2018 Chevy Colorado

Always check your vehicle’s owner’s manual for specific instructions on changing your wiper blades before removing/installing your wiper blades.

This is a fairly easy task that only requires your hands to disassemble and reassemble.

Chevrolet Colorado Windshield Wiper Replacement

You may need to use a step stool in order to reach the wipers depending on how high your truck is raised.

Before you start this guide make sure your truck is off, parked, and on a flat surface just to ensure that you are completing this guide in a safe manner.

1. Identify where the buttons are on the windshield wipers are.
2. Once the buttons are identified make note of where they are located on both wipers because of the different sizes they are slightly different on each.
3. Lift the drive side wiper up so that it is no longer touching the windshield. This allows you to have better access to the wipers.
4. Disconnect the blade on the driver side by pushing the small button down in order to release the wiper.
5. Slowly slide the wiper off of the wiper arm by pulling it back and away from the windshield.
6. The wiper arm is like a hook so make sure that you completely unhook the metal piece from the wiper blade.
7. Follow the direction of the arrows.
8. Repeat steps 1-7 on the passenger side wiper.
9. Grab the 22″ wiper blade and position it on the wiper arm so that it is hooked into places as well as flush with the arm.
10. Pull the wiper blade down with your right hand and slowly push with your left onto the wiper arm until you hear it snap back into place.
11. Make sure that the wiper is securely fastened and that it cannot be removed without pushing the button.
12. Follow the direction of the arrow.
13. Repeat steps 9 and 10 on the passenger side wiper. Make sure you are using the 18″ wiper for the passenger side replacement.

How to Change Trico 2018 Chevrolet Colorado Wiper Blades

• Turn ON your wipers then turn off your Chevrolet Colorado when the wipers are at their mid-way point on your windshield
• Lift your wipers up from the windshield
• With your wipers stopped midway on your windshield it should be easy to lift your wipers up and away from your windshield.
• Your old wipers should stick out, away, from your windshield. Now allowing for easy access during the rest of the changing process.
• Before you remove old wiper blades
• Be sure to take note of which new blade length goes on which side.
• Measure or just compare old blade length to the new Trico® wiper blades.
• Then place the new blades on the correct side.
• Remove old wiper blades
• The 2018 Chevrolet Colorado has a pinch tab attachment for the windshield wipers. Press the tab or button. Then tilt or slide it off the old wiper.
• Different wiper manufacturers use different style attachments for the pinch tab.
• Connect the new Trico® Tech Beam Blade wipers
• With this arm type it is necessary to remove the reattached adaptor on the wiper blade and replace it as follows with adapter (BC)
• Push the small adapter lever toward the centre of the blade.
• While doing step 1, lift the factory installed adaptor off of the blade and discard it.
• Find adaptor (BC) and press it on to the centre of the blade. The two nubs inside of the adaptor onto the area on the blade marked “X”.
• Press the tab on the front of adaptor (B).
• Lift shim (C) off of adaptor (B) and discard it. Tip: Press down on top edge of adaptor B to remove shim (C) easier.
• Hold your thumb firmly on the front of the adaptor, raising the back end up.
• Align the side arm tabs with the side tabs on the back end of the adaptor, and raise the blade into the underside of the arm.
• Rotate the blade up until the tip of the arm locks underneath the adaptor tab.
• The adaptor must lock on to the arm where indicated.
• Check all connections…
• Double check that wiper blades and adapters are locked on to the wiper arms.
• Lower wipers back down to their functional positions.
• Carefully lower your new wipers down to your windshield. Discard old wipers and packaging material.

How to Change 2018 Chevrolet Colorado Rain-X® Wiper Blades

• Turn ON your wipers then turn off your Chevrolet Colorado when the wipers are at their mid-way point on your windshield
• Lift your wipers up from the windshield
• With your wipers stopped midway on your windshield it should be easy to lift your wipers up and away from your windshield.
• Your old wipers should stick out, away, from your windshield. Now allowing for easy access during the rest of the changing process.
• Before you remove old wiper blades, be sure to take note of which new blade length goes on which side.
• Measure or just compare old blade length to the new wiper blades.
• Then place the new blades on the correct side.
• Remove old wiper blades
• Your 2018 Chevrolet Colorado has a Pinch Tab Button (PTB) attachment for the windshield wipers to connect with.
• Different wiper manufacturers use different style attachments for the Pinch Tab Button (PTB). Look for a button to push and slide off the old wiper blade.
• Connect the new Rain-X Latitude w/Repellency Beam Blade wipers
• First pry off the adapter cover. Slide thumb nail under the corner of the cover and pull off with your other hand.
• Remove and discard outer cover.
• Guide both sets of rear tabs in to the end of the wiper arm
• Slide the blade down, under the Rain-X logo, in the adapter channel until it CLICKS.
• After the CLICK the wiper is locked in to place.
• Be sure to REMOVE PLASTIC COVER FROM THE BLADE
• Check all connections…
• Tug on the wipers to double check that all wiper blades are locked on to the wiper arms.
• Lower wipers back down to their functional positions.
• Carefully lower your new wipers down to your windshield. Discard old wipers and packaging material.
• Finally Activate the Rain-X Water Repellency Technology.
• Be sure your windshield is clean and dry.
• Turn ON your new wiper blades. Run them DRY on your windshield for 2-3 minutes.
• Then briefly spray your washer fluid and watch for water beading. That indicates the technology has been activated.

How to open Chevy Colorado tailgate with broken handle

Getting a pickup truck’s tailgate open when it is broken or stuck is a challenging affair. You need to balance the need to open the tailgate with the potential damage you could do to the truck. Fortunately, when a tailgate is broken, it is typically on account of a bad hinge or stuck lever. Both of these can be solved with some simple hand tools and a liquid lubricant.

• Grab the tailgate latch handle and try pulling it to the open position.
• Feel for any dry movement or grit in the handle movement.
• Spray the lubricant into the handle mechanism.
• Spray a generous amount into the mechanism and any moving part surrounding the handle and let the lubricant soak in.
• Grab the screwdriver and move the side of the tailgate where it attaches to the truck side via the hinges.
• Slide the screwdriver into the hinge mechanism and try to manually release the black rubber gasket that holds the tailgate to the truck hinge rod.
• Push the screwdriver up to release the tailgate.
• Drop the tailgate down. Inspect the hinge and rod.
• Spray down the hinge and rod with the lubricant to prevent the sticking in the future, negating the need to open the tailgate with the screwdriver.
• Wipe down any excess lubricant with the rags.
• Close the tailgate and wipe off excess lubricant from the handle with the rags.

How to remove spare tire Chevy Colorado

Proceed to the rear of the truck to check if the the spare tire exists. To do this, drop to one knee, and look up and under the back of the truck, just behind the bumper.

Once you know that you have a spare tire, return to both feet and locate the rectangular plastic cover that is to the passenger side of the license plate. Remove the plastic cover, which will reveal an opening for a key.

Insert the ignition key, and turn to the right while pulling a little towards you. The lock will separate from the hole, and just set the assembly in the back of the truck.

Open the Tire Changing pouch to reveal the crowbar and the multiple rods. One of the rods will have an end that is open a little wider than the rest, and flanged-out on all sides. This is the female end, that needs to be inserted in the hole revealed by the key lock.

Add another rod to the female end rod, to give enough room to go through the bumper and reach the male end of the pully. (If you look through the hole, you’ll see where the female end will match to the male end.)

Insert the rod through the hole and mate up the male and female parts.

Affix the crowbar to the remaining end sticking out of the bumper, and then rotate the crowbar counter-clockwise.

This will turn the pully, and the spare tire will descend towards the ground. Continue rotating until the tire is firmly on the ground, and continue to rotate to give some slack to the wire.

This step is to separate the pulley carrier from the rim, such that you can extract the tire from under the truck. (There’s not enough wire to pull the tire from under the truck.) Place your hand through the centre hole of the rim and grab one end of the mount. (It is rectangular.) Feed the narrow end of the rectangle through the hole.

At this point, if you don’t plan to store a tire underneath, then wind the cable back up, but do not crank it all the way up. I have heard that it will jam. Instead, find somewhere safe to tuck it in, and then wind in the slack.

Chevy Colorado radio won’t turn off

Car radios don’t draw a whole lot of power, but it’s enough to drain your battery dead overnight, or even over the span of a few hours. Here are the most common problems that will prevent a car radio from turning off:

• Head unit wiring: If this problem has always been present, since the head unit was installed, then it’s probably wired incorrectly.
• Ignition switch: The ignition switch may be providing accessory power even when it seems like it’s switched off.
• Key and ignition cylinder: Similarly, a worn-out ignition cylinder may seem to be in the off position when it’s really in the accessory or run position.
• Radio designed to stay on: Some car radios are designed to stay on for a set period of time. When this feature breaks down, you’ll usually need help from a pro.

If your car radio won’t turn off, follow these steps to eliminate each potential culprit. You should be able to narrow down, and even fix, the source of the problem by following these instructions. If you reach the end, and your car radio still won’t turn off, you may need to seek professional assistance.

Check your head unit wiring.

If you have an aftermarket head unit, and your problem has existed ever since it was installed, then you’re probably dealing with a wiring problem.

Car radios are designed to have a single ground wire and two power wires. One power wire is hot all the time, and the other only has power when the engine is running, or when the ignition switch is in the accessory position.

If the main power wire for your head unit is connected to a power source that is always hot, the radio won’t ever turn off.

You can check for this problem with a voltmeter or test light. If both power wires are hot all the time, you’ll need to rewire the radio to receive power from a source that is only hot when the ignition is in the accessory or run position.

Check your ignition switch.

Some ignition switch problems can result in accessory power being available even when the key is removed. If you found that both of your power wires were hot in step one, but you couldn’t find a power source that was only hot with the ignition switch in the accessory or run position, this might be your problem.

You’ll need to check and see if accessory power is available when the key is in the off position. If power is available, then you will have to realign the cylinder or replace the ignition switch as needed.

Check your ignition cylinder and key.

This is a related problem, but it has to do with the mechanical ignition cylinder instead of the electronic switch. If your key or ignition cylinder are especially worn, you may be able to remove the key when the switch is still in the accessory or on position.

To fix this problem, you’ll need to make sure that the ignition switch is actually in the off position when you remove the key. That should allow the radio to turn off. In the long term, replacing the worn-out cylinder will fix the problem.

Check if your radio is designed to stay on for a set amount of time.

Some car radios are on a timer, so they are designed to not shut off immediately. In this case, you’ll want to turn off your engine, remove the key, leave the vehicle, and shut the door. After a few minutes have passed, check if the radio has turned off.

If the radio turns off after a few minutes, that’s normal for your vehicle. If it still hasn’t turned off, check if the dome lights turn off when the doors are shut. If the dome lights don’t turn off, you might have a bad door switch. Otherwise, this type of problem usually requires help from a professional.

Note: Some cars come with a feature that allows the radio to stay on after the keys have been removed from the ignition. This feature typically shuts the radio off after about ten minutes or if a door is shut, although that isn’t a universal rule.

How to change headlight bulb on 2016 Chevy Colorado

• Pull the hood release and raise the hood, propping it up with the hood support.
• Look inside the front of the Colorado near the headlight housing. You will see the bulb sockets.
• Twist the bulb socket counterclockwise to loosen it, and remove it from the housing.
• There are two different bulb sockets to remove: the low-beam headlight on the left, and the high beam headlight on the right.
• Detach the connector from the back of the bulb.
• Attach the connector to the replacement bulb and insert the bulb back into the housing, twisting clockwise to lock it in place.

How to change cabin air filter on Chevy Colorado

Tools and Equipment Needed to Replace a Cabin Air Filter

The tools needed to replace a cabin air filter will vary, depending on the type of car you have.

• User manual or access to a repair database
• Safety glasses
• Screwdriver

Cabin Air Filter Removal Steps:

1. Put on your safety glasses.
2. Open your glove box and remove all of its contents.
3. Disconnect the glove box damper from the glove box (there may be a screw holding the damper in place).
4. Remove the glove box by gently squeezing it on both sides while pulling it toward you.
5. Locate the cabin air filter’s cover behind the glove box.
6. Gently push the tabs on either side of the cover inward to expose the cabin air filter.
7. Remove the cabin filter from the housing by pulling it outward toward you.
8. Cabin Air Filter Installation:
9. Compare the new cabin air filter to the old cabin air filter to ensure that both are the same design.
10. Install the new cabin air filter in the housing. Be sure that the airflow arrow on the new filter is pointing in the right direction (downward).
11. Reinstall the filter cover by snapping it into place.
12. Reinstall the glove box by mounting it in place, then gently squeezing it on both sides while pushing it into position.
13. Reconnect the glove box damper to the glove box.
14. Put everything back inside your glove box and close it.

Chevy Colorado transmission rattling noise when accelerating

The most common reasons a Chevrolet Colorado has a rattling noise are the ball joints, struts or strut mount, or a problem with the sway bar links.

However rattling noise when accelerating could be as a result of other car issues. Such as;

Rattling Sound When Accelerating at High Speed

The Transmission Fluid Level

It’s not a major issue, but you would want to check it to rule out the obvious cause. The fluid should exactly be at the level instructed in the owner’s manual. Low level of fluid is one of the reasons for causing rattling noise when accelerating. It’s a simple issue with a simple fix, but the consequence could be outright scary.

Low transmission fluid level could the source of the rattling sound when accelerating.

Exhaust

The exhaust system is one of the most common culprits that can make it sound like your Chevy Colorado’s engine is rattling.  While the exhaust is outside of the engine itself, it can often cause sounds that are confused for an internal engine rattle.

Heat Shield

The number one rattling culprit in your Colorado’s exhaust system is the heat shield.  They can get a little loose as the vehicle ages and accumulates mileage.  Once this happens, it’ll rattle all of the time.  It’s particularly noticeable when you rev the engine in neutral and let off of the gas pedal.  You should hear a rattle as the engine comes back down from the higher RPM.

If the heat shield is loose, you’ll need to take your Colorado into a good exhaust shop and have it welded back into place.  The good news is that a loose heat shield is never going to leave you broken down on the side of the road.

Exhaust Leak

If your exhaust system is leaking, it will often make an aggressive ticking sound.  Some folks have described it as a rattle.  If it is leaking, the most common place that it leaks from is going to be where it bolts to the block at the exhaust manifolds.  You can check and see if any of the exhaust manifold bolts have broken off.  This is very common in all vehicles.

Catalytic Converter

The catalytic converter is responsible for scrubbing the majority of the pollutants out of your exhaust.  As it ages, the metals inside can break down.  When this happens, you can hear them rattle around.

When the catalytic converter does fail, it’ll often give you code P0420, or P0430.  If your check engine light is on, you may want to see if you have an emissions-related code.  That would be very strong evidence that the catalytic converter is causing the problem.

Most auto parts stores are happy to scan your codes free of charge.  Otherwise, scanners are really cheap.

Timing Chain

A loose timing chain can really make a rattling sound.  This sound is particularly noticeable when you start the Colorado.  A bad tensioner will leave the chain loose and ready to jump a tooth or fall off all of the way.  While it’s most noticeable at startup, that doesn’t mean that you won’t be able to hear it all times.  Sometimes you can, sometimes you can’t.

Loose Accessory

If something has worked its way loose on your engine, it can rattle and dance at different RPMs.  If you’ve left your oil cap loose on top of the valve cover, that can cause a rattling sound.  Or, if you’ve left a tool on top of the intake or valve cover it can cause a rattling sound.  It doesn’t even need to be something loose; it can just be out of place.

Oil

This seems obvious, but it’s worth checking out.  If there is no oil in the crankcase, the engine is going to sound like a rattling old buzzsaw.  That rattling sound is the sound of your Colorado’s engine dying.

If you have a blown head gasket, you could be losing water that goes into the crankcase.  When this happens, the oil loses its viscosity as it is watered down.  The oil will look orange and foamy when this is the case.

Internal Engine Issue

If you’ve been looking for all of the issues described above, it could be that there is something inside of the engine that is making it rattle.  You could have a stuck lifter, a burnt valve, the wrong spark plugs, or more.  Hopefully, one of the easier to fix and more common issues listed above though.

Torque Converter

A bad torque converter could be the origin of rattling sound when accelerating at low speed. It will be a faint sound when the car is idling in ‘park’ mode, but the volume and frequency will increase in proportion to acceleration. It could indicate the last stage of the converter’s life. If this happens, you should take the vehicle to a repair shop as soon as possible.

Motor Mount

The motor mount on the passenger side could be another obvious culprit. Its failure could lead to the rattling noise when accelerating. A ruptured mount will leak fluid everywhere. So, if you see dark lines of dripping oil underneath or on the frame next to the side mount, take it to a mechanic.

Sometimes, it’s hard to determine the failure just by looking at it, especially if there’s no stain of oil. You will need to have it diagnosed by a professional in that case.

V-Belt Pulleys

The speed of these pulleys escalates with the engine speed. If they are slightly bent or loose, the metal-on-metal contact will create terrifying rattling sound when accelerating. Open the hood and inspect the V-belts when the engine is off and running.

If a pulley is bad, the belt will show damage in the form of frayed sides. If the accessory drive system is the root that car makes rattling noise when accelerating, you can remove the belt and spin each of the pulleys to see if anyone wobbles or feels loose.

Rattling Sound When Accelerating at Low Speed

So, what’s about car makes noise when accelerating at low speed on the road? The rattling noise appears when you start speeding up from 0 to maybe 30 or 40 mph and then disappear after car speed surpasses 40 mph.

In another circumstance, when your automobile is running at low speed the noise keeps coming out of car engine. Moreover, you have the feeling that your car is held back by something indefinable.

What have you done in that situation? The culprit of rattling sound when accelerating mainly derives from car engine. So, first things you should do is checking transmission fluid level, torque converter, motor mount, heat shields and pulleys respectively until you could find the reason.

Common Repairs

Suspension Ball Joint Replacement

A “clunk” or “knock” when turning or going over bumps can indicate a problem with a ball joint. The sensation is often felt in the floorboard. A repair technician may notice if a ball joint is leaking lubricant from a worn or torn boot during an inspection or a related repair. Excessive wear on the inside or outside edges of the front tires can sometimes indicate problems with the ball joints, as well.

Suspension Shock or Strut Assembly Replacement

Struts and shocks that are broken or failing can cause a number of symptoms, most of which will make for a less comfortable ride. They include the following: A knocking, rattling or thumping noise while driving A bumpy ride, or the nose or tail end of dipping down during hard braking and acceleration. Body roll when turning. Abnormal, “cupped” tire wear Leaking hydraulic fluid.

Chevy Colorado jerks when accelerating

If your car is jerking around when you accelerate this is a warning sign that there is a bigger problem with your car.

If your check engine light is on, the first thing that you should do is scan the computer system and see if there are any OBDII diagnostic trouble codes.  You can pick up a scanner pretty cheap.  Or, most major parts stores will provide this service to you free of charge.

Here are the most common issues that cause your Colorado to jerk when accelerating:

 Engine Misfire

An engine misfire can be caused by a few things.  Most of the time it’s going to be the spark plugs or coil packs that are the culprit.  A misfire is the most common reason that your Chevy Colorado would be jerking while accelerating.

Spark Plugs are one of the most common reasons a vehicle will jerk when accelerating

Here are some common misfire causes.

• Spark Plugs– Even under the best conditions, spark plugs will eventually need to be replaced.  Oil on the plugs, the wrong plug, or bad spark plugs can cause a misfire.
• Coil Packs– Your ignition coil, or coil packs, create the spark and send it to the spark plug at just the right time for optimal power and efficiency.  When one has gone bad, they’ll usually cause your Colorado to jerk when accelerating, idle rough, and hurt fuel mileage.  Here’s more on diagnosing bad coil packs.
• Plug Wires– Spark plug wires are not as common as they used to be, but your particular model of Colorado may have them, so they are on the list.  A spark plug wire goes bad when it can no longer transfer the spark from the coil pack or distributor properly.

While ignition system is the most likely reason that a vehicle will jerk when accelerating, it is not the only one.

Note: Spark plugs that are worn out will cause the engine to misfire. This means that your spark plugs are not igniting the fuel in each piston cylinder in a timely manner, causing your car to jerk around while accelerating. If your spark plugs are worn out, they should just be replaced, as they are generally an easy and inexpensive repair.

Exhaust Issues

All of your exhaust has to pass through the catalytic converter to get to the tailpipe.  It is possible for the converter to clog.  This is particularly true if there has been a rich air/fuel mixture that has run through it for a while.  When it is clogged, your Colorado will struggle and jerk when accelerating.

You may also notice that it has a “top speed” that is much lower than what you would need to drive on the highway.  This happens when the catalytic converter is almost completely full, and the engine is choking on its exhaust.

Fuel System

Your Colorado needs fuel to run(obviously).  If one of your fuel injectors is clogged, or not firing properly, it can cause a jerking sensation.

Outside of bad fuel injectors, a bad fuel pump or fuel filter can also cause a jerk while accelerating.  When either of these go bad, there is not enough fuel pressure at the fuel rails.

You should check to see if the air intake it blocked with something foreign.  Or, if you have a very dirty air filter.  Not enough air will throw off the air fuel ratio and make the Colorado jerk as well.

Bad Motor Mount or Transmission Mount

The motor and transmission mounts are responsible for connecting your Colorado’s engine and transmission to the chassis.  If one of them breaks, it can lead to jerking when braking, accelerating, or putting the vehicle in gear.

Dirty Fuel Injectors

Fuel injectors are how the gas in your car is admitted into your car’s engine. When your fuel injectors get dirty the stream of fuel will not be continuous, causing misfires in your engine – and as a result your car to jerk as you accelerate. Your fuel injectors should be cleaned occasionally to avoid this problem, as well as more costly repairs down the line.

Damaged Acceleration Cable

You may experience jerking if your acceleration cable is worn out. This is a metal braided cable that serves as a link between the gas pedal and your engine throttle plate. When you press the gas pedal the cable is pulled and this opens the throttle.

Over time these cables weaken with age and can fail and break. When this cable becomes damaged it will take you longer to accelerate and cause your car to jerk.

Blocked Fuel or Air Intakes

Car engines need air and fuel to work. Inside of your engine air mixes with fuel and is lit by the spark plugs to create an explosion that moves the pistons inside. This cycle continues on and on, allowing your car to move.

If there is a block in the lines that allow fuel or air into your engine then this cycle is interrupted and can cause your car to jerk as you try to accelerate. Typically, a check engine light will appear if one of these intakes is blocked – remember, never ignore your check engine light, always bring it into a service center right away.

Accumulated Moisture

Moisture gathering in your car’s distributor cap can cause your car to jerk while you are accelerating, as this will cause your engine to misfire. This can happen easily when you are parked outside in cold weather. The best way to prevent this is to park in a warm dry spot on cold and wet weather days.

Clogged Catalytic Converter

Your catalytic converter is responsible for regulating the emissions coming out of your car. Sometimes the rich mixtures of air and fuel that flows through your catalytic converter can clog, which can result in a jerking or stuttering motion when you press the gas pedal.

Chevy Colorado touch screen not responding to touch

Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can take to fix the issue with your car’s touch screen:

• Clean your touchscreen
• Reboot the touchscreen by turning it off and back on again
• Recalibrate the screen from the settings menu
• Perform a factory reset

If these steps don’t help, you may have a more significant issue that needs repair or replacement.

The cost of having a professional replace your car’s touch screen depends on what you choose as a replacement but can generally land between $100 and $300.

How to adjust headlights on 2005 Chevy Colorado

Before you drive your vehicle at night, you should make sure the headlights are aimed properly. You can adjust them using this simple process and tools that you already have.

Tools needed

• Ratchet or screwdriver
• Measuring tape
• A dry erase marker
• Painter’s tape
• A wall or flat surface
• A piece of cardboard or jacket thick enough to block light

You will alos need at least 25 feet of working space.

Note: To adjust your headlights, you’ll need a ratchet or screwdriver that matches your vehicle’s headlight adjusters. Headlight adjusters are in different locations on every vehicle. You can check your owner’s manual to find them or look for the adjustment screws adjacent to or behind the headlight. Once you know what kind of screws your vehicle has, you’ll be able to choose an appropriate tool.

Steps To Aim Your Headlights

For you to properly align your headlights, your vehicle should be on level ground. You can adjust your headlights inside or outside using this step-by-step process:

Prepare your vehicle

Ensure your tires are filled to the appropriate air pressure and that you have around a half tank of gas (the weight of the fuel will adjust the vehicle’s stance, and you’re more likely to have between 1/4 and 3/4 tank of gas than you are an empty or full tank). If you regularly carry around heavy equipment or supplies, place them in the vehicle as well.

Find the headlight axis

With a dry erase marker, draw a small dot in the center of each headlight. This is the headlight axis. Make sure to mark the center of the regular lights, not the high beams.

Park your vehicle

Park your vehicle right in front of a level wall or flat surface — this could be your garage wall, garage door or a wall in a parking lot. You should have enough room to back up 25 feet in a straight line from the spot.

Jounce the suspension

Bounce the vehicle a few times on all four corners to allow the suspension to settle.

Create a center guide

Using a piece of painter’s tape, put a vertical mark on the wall or garage door in line with the center of your vehicle. Don’t worry about precise measurements — this mark will just serve as a guide. A hood ornament or front license plate can be helpful for determining this.

Mark the headlight axis on the wall

Place a vertical strip of painter’s tape on the wall in front of each headlight axis. The axis dot should line up with the center of the tape.

Measure the height of the headlight axis

Using your measuring tape, measure from the ground to the headlight axis, using the dot as a guide.

Mark the height of the headlight axis on the wall

Measure up the wall and make a mark on the tape at the height of the headlight axis.

Find the headlight cut-off lines

On the driver’s side of the wall, measure four inches below the axis height you marked and draw another line. On the passenger’s side, draw a line two inches below the axis height. These marks will serve as cut-off points when you adjust your lights. The driver side mark is lower than the passenger side mark to reduce the glare seen by oncoming drivers.

Mark the headlight cut-off lines

On each side of the wall, place a horizontal strip of painter’s tape above each cut-off line, making sure it’s level. The bottom of the tape should line up with the drawn cut-off line. This step makes it easier to see the cut-off from a distance.

Back your vehicle up

You’re ready to adjust your lights now. Back your vehicle in a straight line away from the wall. The front of your headlights should be 25 feet from the aiming wall chart you’ve created.

Turn on your lights

Turn off your garage lights or any other light source and turn on your vehicle’s headlights to compare their alignment to the guide. If you’re adjusting your headlights outside, you’ll need to do this work at night.

Adjust your headlights

Use a piece of cardboard or a jacket to block one headlight. Then, use your ratchet or screwdriver to turn the other light’s vertical adjuster screws, being careful not to lean on the vehicle. Turn the screw clockwise or counter clockwise until the top of the light lines up with the bottom of your adjustment chart’s cut-off line.

When the lights are aimed properly, everything above the horizontal tape will be dark. Repeat the process on the other side. If you notice that your lights are horizontally out of alignment, follow a similar process using the horizontal adjustment screws, to adjust them back to center.

Check the alignment

Remove the cardboard or jacket from the covered headlight and check the finished alignment. The beam from the driver’s side headlight should sit a bit lower than the one from the passenger’s side. This setup gives you proper visibility without blinding other drivers.

Test your lights

After you’ve set your headlight alignment, take your vehicle out for a test drive to make sure the lights provide proper visibility.

Chevy Colorado Shuts Off While Driving

Below are some main reasons why your car shuts off while driving;

Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor

One of the most common reasons for the issue of car shuts off while driving is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor’s role is to monitor the engine’s many moving parts including the crankshaft, engine valves, and pistons. It tracks the crankshaft’s velocity and location to help facilitate the optimal timing for fuel injection and ignition.

In short, this mechanism is essential for your engine’s optimal efficiency. A failing crankshaft position sensor cannot provide the correct information about piston positioning in the engine to the Engine Control Unit, causing a cylinder to misfire. 

If the crankshaft position sensor isn’t working properly, it can cause the check engine light to come on. Another sign that the crankshaft position sensor is faulty is that the tachometer isn’t working properly. The tachometer is the gauge typically located next to your speedometer on your dashboard that reads the RPMs in your car. The tachometer typically increases every time you rev your engine. When the intended speed is achieved, the tachometer will stay put in its place.

After receiving information about the engine speed from the crankshaft position sensor, the ECU will then relay information to the tachometer. So, if the crankshaft position sensor is faulty, it will send incorrect and abnormal data to the ECU, which is then relayed and causing the tachometer to start working erratically or sporadically.

Other common symptoms of a faulty crankshaft position sensor are that fuel efficiency will be compromised and the engine could run very rough, misfire before stalling out completely while driving.

One way to check if your crankshaft position sensor is faulty is by using an OBD scanner and reading the error codes from the ECU. If you receive diagnostic trouble codes between P0335 and P0338, then your crankshaft position sensor is having a problem. Although an OBD scanner might not help you pinpoint the exact issue, it’s still an excellent tool to narrow down the culprits.

Faulty Engine Control Unit

Another source of problem that might lead to car shuts off while driving and an illuminated Check Engine light is a faulty Engine Control Unit (ECU) or engine control module. The ECU in your car is a computer that collects information from various parts of an internal combustion engine to make sure everything in the whole system is working properly in an optimal and precise manner to maximize efficiency.

A faulty ECU can cause sudden drops in power, fuel efficiency, and spark loss, causing your car to shut off randomly and turn back on. Another common symptom of a faulty ECU is your car stalling and jerking while driving. The check engine light might also light up on your dash. 

Unfortunately, testing and inspecting your ECU is not easy. A check engine light doesn’t necessarily mean an ECU problem. If you want to try troubleshooting yourself, the only thing you can do is to use an OBD scanner to see what diagnostic trouble code you get. However, the code might still not be clear cut for a failing ECU. Your only option is to take it to a professional mechanic. A mechanic will have the right tools, software, and understanding to diagnose your ECU.

Faulty Alternator

The alternator in your car is in charge of producing a constant stream of electricity from the car’s mechanical energy. It uses this electrical energy to run various electrical parts such as dash lights, dome lights, conditioning unit, stereo, … and to charge the battery. If for some reason the alternator is not doing its job properly, your car will not get the electrical power it needs, leading to the problem of car shuts off while driving. When this happens, you will get a flashing dash.

It’s important to note that if your battery is functioning properly and can step in to supply power after your alternator dies, your car can still run for a while without an alternator, so you might not realize right away what you’re dealing with. 

But your car can only last a short period while running on the battery, as the battery is not designed to provide power to the entire car. Once your battery dies, your car will stall and eventually shut off completely.

If you pay enough attention to how your car runs, you should be able to sense when an alternator is not working properly, that is your car will begin to receive an intermittent amount of power. Regardless, a basic DIY car maintenance job is to use a multimeter or a voltmeter to test your battery together with your alternator at regular intervals, say every 4-6 months.

To test an alternator, leave the engine running, turn off all lights, including the dashboard, and all accessories like the stereo that may be using electricity. Perform the battery test with the multimeter. A healthy alternator should produce between 13.1V and 14.6V at regular idle speed. If not, you should have it further inspected by a professional.

Then, test the alternator to see if it will function properly under heavy usage. Let your assistant keep the engine running at a speed of 2000 RPM. Turn on all accessories, including headlights, interior lights, radio, wipers and reconnect the voltmeter. If it reads 13.0 volts and above, the alternator is strong enough. Anything lower than 13.0 signals a faulty alternator that needs to be replaced.

Empty Fuel Tank but Faulty Fuel Gauge

You might be surprised to learn that thousands of people every year find their car shuts off while driving due to an empty fuel tank. While some might be too busy or forgetful to check the fuel level regularly and refill at the earliest opportunity, there are instances where your fuel gauge has gone faulty and does not show the real fuel level in the tank.

One of the common reasons you have a faulty gas gauge is due to a sending unit failure. This will typically cause your fuel gauge to get stuck in one position regardless of the fuel level, which is typically at the “F” or “E” mark in most cases.

If you suspect that there is a problem with your fuel gauge or fuel level sensor, try to fill 1 gallon or 4 litres of gasoline to see if your car starts again.

Clogged or Faulty Fuel Pump or Fuel System

If your car turns off while driving but then turns back on suddenly, it can often be due to a bad fuel pump. Your engine needs a precise supply of fuel at a precise time as input for combustion to generate power, and the fuel pump is the part that supplies the engine with the correct amount of fuel.

If the engine does not get the correct amount of fuel at the right moments, the motor will shut off and when this happens, it is very similar to your car running out of gasoline. The bad news is if you are dealing with a faulty fuel pump, there is no bypass for it. You will have to fix it or replace it.

Another reason could be that your fuel filter got clogged. The fuel filter’s job is to clean the fuel that goes into the engine. Over time, it can be clogged by contaminations in old gasoline, so the fuel pump can’t pump the sufficient amount of fuel through it, messing up the engine’s ability to produce power and make your car shuts off while driving.

If your fuel filter is nylon or paper, you should just replace it, which is cheap. If it’s made of metal, you can just clean and reuse it.

Most fuel pumps are installed inside the fuel tank. One quick way to check whether the fuel pump is really the culprit when your car shuts off while driving is to give the fuel tank a kick with your foot. If the car starts then, there is most likely a problem with your fuel pump. But do not knock it violently with a metal tool as the tank is made of plastic and you would not want to damage it.

Faulty Ignition Switch

When you turn the key to start the car, the ignition switch, which is installed behind the ignition lock, gets turned. Inside the ignition switch are many tiny metal plates that can build up rust over time. When this happens, one of these plates may lose connection, and the whole ignition will get switched off.

Or the ignition relay can go bad, and the mechanism which controls the amount of electricity going through them will stop working. These will cause the engine to shut off abruptly while driving.

Luckily, it’s pretty easy to check whether a faulty ignition switch is the reason for your car shuts off while driving. When the car shuts down, check if there are still lights on your dashboard. If the dashboard instrument is dead, a faulty ignition switch is likely.

And put your car keys in the ignition again after the car shuts down and try turning them. If this doesn’t start the engine, then you most likely have an ignition failure.

Faulty Spark Plugs

Another vital component that allow your engine to generate power is the tiny spark plugs. They are the parts that ignites the air and fuel mixture in the engine combustion chamber to generate combustions. Each cylinder has its own spark plug.

If you have only one faulty spark plug, you can still start your car and drive. But when more than one spark plugs malfunction, your car may start, but it most likely won’t drive long. Multiple faulty spark plugs will cause your engine to stall and shuts off while driving.

Before your engine completely shuts off and leave you stranded, in most cases, there are other tell-tale signs that you should look out for, including reduced engine performance, lack of acceleration, engine misfires, and engine knocking.

If you come across these symptoms, it’s pretty easy to determine if you have a bad spark plug: your jus need to locate and inspect them. Once you can physically see your spark plugs, you can determine the condition of your spark plugs. A bad spark plug is one that is blistered from running too hot, or one covered with a substance like oil, fuel or carbon.

Chevy Colorado Shakes While Idling

If it shakes while it idles, you could be in for a visit to the mechanic. When your car is functioning properly it should run smoothly in all driving modes – moving fast, slowly, stopped and idling. A sign that the engine needs to be checked, and possibly need some repairs, is when your car shakes as it idles.

Here are some reasons why your car shakes or shudders while it idles, and what repairs you might need.

Dirty or Worn-Out Spark Plugs

Spark plugs that are dirty or worn out will not fire properly, which means they aren’t igniting the fuel in each of the piston cylinders in a timely manner. This causes the engine to misfire, which is commonly known as “not firing on all cylinders.”

Dirty spark plugs can sometimes be cleaned, but should just be replaced as they are generally inexpensive. A good mechanic can ensure they are installed and calibrated correctly.

A Dirty or Faulty Fuel Intake System

An improperly adjusted or dirty fuel intake system can easily cause the engine to shudder and shake. As a car age accumulates, thousands of miles of wear and tear, its fuel intake valves can become clogged with sludgy build-up.

Clogged or poorly adjusted valves deliver uneven amounts of fuel to the engine; and without an even, continuous supply of clean fuel, your engine can start to shake or shudder while it idles. Along with the intake system, the fuel pump should be checked for wear and possible issues.

Loose, Disconnected or Broken Hoses

Hoses are a culprit for many engines performance issues, and excessive vibration and shaking is no exception. All cars have vacuum hoses, which are connected to various points in your engine. They serve to clear and expel the by-product gases, such as exhaust and fumes, from the engine. A leaky or broken vacuum hose can cause major shaking in the engine.

If the hose is loose, disconnected, or worn out, multiple engine problems can occur. The engine, might misfire, lose power, chug or stall, or even shut down entirely. One of the symptoms of a vacuum hose leak is violent shaking or shuddering of the engine. Luckily, these issues can be readily identified and fixed by a good mechanic.

Worn Out or Poorly-adjusted Belts

Your car’s timing belt, serpentine belt, or v-belts on other systems, are common causes of engine vibration and squealing. A loose timing belt or other belts that might be loose or worn out will cause things like fans and other parts to not rotate or operate properly or at the correct speeds.

This will result in strange noises and vibrations from the engine. Luckily these problems are easily addressed by having the belts inspected to make sure they’re installed, adjusted and operating properly.

Broken Motor Mounts

Motor mounts keep the engine attached to the car. If the vehicle shakes or the engine shudders a lot when stopped at a stoplight, or when parked with the engine idling, it might indicate the motor mounts or transmission mounts are damaged or broken.

To see if this is really the problem, shift the car into neutral. If the shaking decreases, it’s a strong indicator the engine’s motor mounts need to be inspected by a mechanic.